Despite what some might believe, pasta does not require tomato sauce. From Italy, anchovies and garlic flavor a simple sauce for ear-shaped orecchiette pasta studded with mild broccolini and crispy seasoned bread crumbs. For a Mexican spin, broiled poblano peppers and parsley form the base for a vibrant cream sauce for bucatini or spaghetti. And walnuts enrich a pesto-like puree for whole wheat pasta that gets brightened with a squeeze of lemon and fresh herbs.
Orecchiette With Broccolini
Makes 4 servings
Orecchiette with broccoli rabe (orecchiette con cime di rapa) is a signature pasta dish from the Puglia region of southern Italy. We were taught how to make it by Nunzia da Scalo, a cook in Bari, Italy. The bitterness of rabe is challenging for some palates, so we use sweeter, milder broccolini. However, if you like the assertiveness of rabe, it can easily be used in place of the broccolini, though rabe will cook a little more quickly.
We boil the pasta in a minimal amount of water, then the starchy liquid that remains becomes the base for the sauce that marries the orecchiette and broccolini.
A finishing sprinkle of toasted seasoned bread crumbs adds a crisp texture. Fine, dried bread crumbs are not a good substitute for panko bread crumbs. Their sandy, powdery texture doesn’t offer the light, delicate crispness of panko.
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
8 medium garlic cloves, 4 minced, 4 thinly sliced
8 oil-packed anchovy fillets, minced
¾ cup panko bread crumbs
1½ pounds broccolini, trimmed and cut crosswise into ¼-inch pieces
½ to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
12 ounces orecchiette pasta
In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of oil until it shimmers. Add the minced garlic and half the anchovies, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the panko and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside; wipe out the pot.
In the same pot set over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil until it shimmers. Add the broccolini, pepper flakes, sliced garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccolini is crisp-tender and the garlic is golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes. Add ½ cup water and continue to cook, stirring, until most of the moisture has evaporated and the broccolini is fully tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.
In the same pot set over medium-high heat, boil 5 cups water. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the pasta, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente. Stir in the broccolini mixture, the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and the remaining anchovies. Continue to cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened enough to cling lightly to the pasta and broccolini, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the bread crumbs.
Pasta With Roasted Poblano Sauce
Makes 4 to 6 servings
This is a simplified spin on a recipe from Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico, co-written by Bricia Lopez, a proprietor of Guelaguetza restaurant in Los Angeles. Roasted poblano chilies give the pasta a pleasant, earthy heat that gets balanced by Mexican crema and milk, which add richness. If you cannot find crema, crème fraîche, though thicker, is the next best option (do not opt for sour cream, as it breaks when heated).
Drain the pasta when just shy of al dente; it will finish cooking directly in the sauce. Remember to save about 1 cup of the pasta water before draining, for use in the sauce.
8 ounces poblano chilies
1 pound bucatini or spaghetti
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
¾ cup whole milk
½ medium white onion, roughly chopped
½ cup Mexican crema or crème fraîche
1 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley or cilantro
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
Crumbled cotija cheese, optional, for garnish
Heat the broiler with a rack 6 inches from the element. Broil the poblanos on a rimmed baking sheet until charred all over, about 15 minutes, flipping once. Cover and let steam.
Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain and set aside; reserve the pot.
Remove and discard the skins, stems, and seeds from the chilies. Using a blender, puree the chilies, milk, onion, crema, half the parsley, and ½ teaspoon salt until smooth. In the reserved pot, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the puree and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened. Add the pasta and ½ cup of the cooking water; cook, stirring, until the pasta is al dente and lightly sauced. Off heat, stir in the remaining parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with additional oil, and topped with the cotija cheese, if using.
Whole-Wheat Pasta With Walnut Sauce and Swiss Chard
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Salsa di noci from Liguria in northern Italy is a pesto-like puree with a base of oil-rich walnuts and accents of garlic and Parmesan. We thicken ours with a mix of panko bread crumbs hydrated in milk (as a panade), and we brighten the flavors with lemon juice and fresh herbs.
The chard in this recipe is a nod to Ligurian pansotti, a pasta filled with greens and cheese, that’s a traditional pairing with salsa di noci. We add the chard to the boiling pasta during the last few minutes of cooking, so check the timing on the pasta package to get a sense of how long the noodles will take to reach al dente. We think the tannins in walnuts make the sauce a particularly good match for hearty whole-wheat pasta. Just about any shape works well, but we’re partial to farfalle, with its sauce-catching crevices, and twirlable spaghetti. If you prefer, use regular durum semolina pasta.
The walnuts should not be toasted for this sauce. Also, don’t use the chard stems, as they require a longer cooking time than the delicate leaves. But save them—they can be quick-pickled or sautéed with aromatics when making soups or stews.
½ cup panko bread crumbs
¼ cup whole milk
1 pound whole-wheat farfalle or spaghetti
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 pound), stemmed, leaves cut into rough 2-inch pieces
1½ cups walnuts
1 ounce Parmesan cheese (without rind), cut into 3 or 4 pieces, plus finely grated Parmesan, to serve
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
1 small garlic clove, smashed and peeled
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram or oregano
In a small bowl, stir together the panko and milk; set aside while you cook the pasta.
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Stir in the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until 2 to 3 minutes shy of al dente. Add the chard to the pot and cook until the pasta is al dente. Reserve about 1½ cups of the cooking water, then drain the pasta and greens; return to the pot.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the panko mixture, walnuts, Parmesan, oil, garlic, lemon juice, marjoram, and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Pulse until the walnuts are roughly chopped, about 3 pulses, then process until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs, about 20 seconds. Add 1 cup of the reserved pasta water, then process until smooth and creamy, about another 30 seconds, scraping down the bowl once.
Add the walnut sauce to the pasta-chard mixture, then toss to combine, adding reserved pasta water as needed so the sauce coats the noodles. Serve drizzled with oil and sprinkled with grated Parmesan.
Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.
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Recipes: Pasta with broccolini, walnut sauce, or poblano sauce - The Boston Globe
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