According to the FDA, any dish containing eggs should be served immediately after cooking or refrigerated and reheated to an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Dishes containing eggs should also not remain out of the fridge for any longer than two hours. But, according to Bourdain, these prescriptions simply aren't realistic (or even common industry practice) when it comes to hollandaise. "Nobody I know has ever made hollandaise to order," he wrote. "Most likely, the stuff on your eggs was made hours ago and held on station." Plus, salmonella infections usually remain symptomatic for four to seven days, which is a drag, to say the least — and it'll certainly put you out of brunch commission till at least next weekend.
Not even a vote of approval from Chef Thomas Keller (who Bourdain called his "idol" in an episode of "A Cook's Tour") could change the writer's mind. To Keller, hollandaise is a nostalgic, beloved part of his personal cooking history since the mid-1970s. "Hollandaise sauce for me was ... being able to do something that was so refined and had such history to it," he tells MasterClass. Still, the sauce itself might not be to blame as much as the industry practices that allegedly make it less than fit for a professional setting — or, as Bourdain succinctly called it, "a veritable petri dish of biohazards."
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June 19, 2023 at 12:10PM
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Why Anthony Bourdain Cautioned Against Restaurant Hollandaise Sauce - Tasting Table
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