Seasonal Pantry: What makes fish sauce the key to Thai cooking - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

Prepare the dressing and set aside.

Set a stovetop grill or ridged skillet over high heat. Season the steak all over with salt and pepper and when the pan is very hot, add the steak. For grass-fed beef, cook for 90 seconds, rotate 45 degrees and cook for 1 minute; turn the steak over and repeat. For corn-fed beef, cook for 90 seconds, rotate 45 degrees and cook for 3 minutes; turn the steak over and repeat. Transfer the steak to a plate, cover with a lid or sheet of aluminum foil and let rest about 3 minutes for grass-fed and 5 minutes for corn-fed.

Put the salad greens, cilantro and mint in a large bowl, toss gently and divide among 4 plates.

Cut the meat crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices across the grain. Divide the meat among the servings, arranging it on top of the greens. Drizzle with all the sauce, garnish with mint sprigs and lime wedges, and enjoy right away.

Thai Lime Dressing

Makes about 1/2 cup

5 large garlic cloves, crushed and minced

4-5 serranos or similar chiles, seeded and minced (see note below)

4 teaspoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce, such as Golden Boy brand

4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

2 teaspoons white sesame seeds, lightly toasted, optional

Put the garlic and serranos in a small glass bowl, add the sugar, fish sauce and lime juice and stir for a few seconds, until the sugar is dissolved. Add the sesame seeds, if using. Use the dressing immediately or store in a covered jar in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Note: If you can find a red serrano or Thai chile, use one or two in this dish. It adds color and just a hint of ripeness.

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Along the main street of Aix-en-Provence in the south of France, several restaurants serve big bowls of steamed mussels, some in tangy white wine and garlic broth, others in rich, curry-scented sauce. A Thai-style green curry is particularly good with clams, or with cockles, if you can find them. Be sure to taste the cooking liquid and adjust as needed.

Clams in Green Curry

Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter

2 shallots, minced

2-3 serranos, minced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced cilantro roots

1 can (14 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk

2 teaspoons sugar, preferably palm sugar

— Juice of 2 limes

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

1 fresh lemongrass stalk, fat part only, crushed

½ cup, packed, minced cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons minced Thai basil

4 pounds littleneck or Manila clams, rinsed

— Lime wedges

Melt the butter in a large pot set over medium low heat, add the shallots and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 7 to 8 minutes. Add the serranos, garlic and cilantro roots and sauté 2 minutes more. Add several shakes of fish sauce and stir in the coconut milk, sugar, lime juice, ginger, lemongrass, cilantro, basil and ¾ cup water. Simmer 3 minutes.

Add the clams, cover the pot and cook until the clams open, about 5 to 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the clams to individual bowls.

Use tongs to remove and discard the lemongrass. Taste the liquid, and if it seems a bit flat, add a few more shakes of fish sauce. Ladle the cooking liquid over the clams, garnish with lime wedges and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes & Other Dressings.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.

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Seasonal Pantry: What makes fish sauce the key to Thai cooking - Santa Rosa Press Democrat
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