Pass the tartar: Century-old recipe yields best sauce - The Ellsworth American

Special to The Ellsworth American

In his 1911 History of the New England Fisheries, Middlebury College Professor Raymond McFarland (a native of Lamoine) rhapsodized about the seafood caught by Mainers as “unsurpassed in America for the abundance and variety of the catch.” He noted that lobsters were more numerous on Maine’s coast than any other state and that Maine’s sardine canning industry was “the most extensive and valuable in the Western Hemisphere.” He listed the names of various ridges, troughs, islands, fishing grounds and bare rocks where cod, haddock, hake, halibut, cusk, pollock and mackerel were harvested by Maine fishermen.

Some of these names reflect the flair and whimsy of seafarers for humorous and descriptive language: Old Man’s Pasture, Spot of Rocks, Saturday Night’s Ledge, the Grumpy, Kettle Bottom, the Nubble, Inner Bumbo and Outer Bumbo, Tanter and Cape Porpoise Peaks.

With seafood in such abundance, Maine community cookbooks published in the last quarter of the 19th century included recipes for fish and sauces to accompany them. The fish recipes, whether for grilling, baking or poaching, were usually quite simple. That explains why the “Second Parish Cook Book,” published in Portland in 1893, advised for its fish dishes, “serve always with a sauce.” The following recipe for tartar sauce comes from this cookbook. It is simple to make and vastly superior to commercial preparations.

Tartar Sauce

 

Ingredients:

½ cup mayonnaise (Hellmann’s or homemade)

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

dash of black pepper

pinch of sea salt

1 Tbsp. grated onion juice

1 Tbsp. capers

2 Tbsps. finely chopped dill pickles

Stir everything together thoroughly. Refrigerate until ready to use.

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Pass the tartar: Century-old recipe yields best sauce - The Ellsworth American
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