The Chef: Will Mester
His Restaurant: Le Comptoir du Vin, in Baltimore
What He’s Known For: Robust, wine-friendly dishes. Translating his love of traditional bistro cooking into vital new recipes.
LIKE SO MANY CHEFS, Will Mester has had to rethink the way he does things over the last couple months. His restaurant, Le Comptoir du Vin in Baltimore, is now offering a limited menu of dishes, most of them stews, plus pantry items, good wine and bottled cocktails, for takeout only. At home, Mr. Mester is spending more time in the kitchen. “It’s absolutely making me a better cook,” he said. “You really focus. It’s meditative.” He’s keeping it relatively simple, too. “Eggs are big,” he said. “They’re basic and calming.”
Mr. Mester’s second Slow Food Fast recipe is a comforting combination of fried eggs and boiled new potatoes, drizzled with plenty of spicy mojo rojo. The rust-colored sauce of smoky Spanish pimentón, toasted ancho chiles, garlic, cumin, Sherry vinegar and olive oil comes together quickly and packs a nice punch. “It’s really versatile,” Mr. Mester said. “We’ve served it with lots of poultry, meat and even fish.” This mojo rojo keeps well, too. You'll want to have some on hand in the refrigerator, ready to spoon onto any dish that could use a little livening up.
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Fried Eggs With New Potatoes and Mojo Rojo
TOTAL TIME: 25 minutes SERVES: 4
3 pounds new potatoes
Kosher salt
2 ancho or other large, mild dried chiles
6 cloves garlic, skin on
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon Spanish pimentón or paprika
2 teaspoons Sherry or other vinegar
½ cup olive oil, plus more for greasing pan
8 eggs
1. Place potatoes in a medium pot and cover with water by 1 inch. Salt water generously and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer potatoes until they are easily pierced with a knife, 15-20 minutes. Strain potatoes and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, stem and seed chiles. (If you like more heat, leave seeds in chiles.) In a large, dry pan over medium heat, toast chiles and garlic cloves, turning occasionally, until chiles are fragrant and browned all over, about 2 minutes. Remove chiles and set aside to cool slightly. Continue to dry toast garlic until skins brown, 1-2 minutes more. Turn off heat and immediately add cumin. Once cumin is aromatic, after about 1 minute, remove everything from the pan and peel away garlic skins. Use a food processor to grind chiles to a fine powder.
3. Add peeled garlic and cumin to food processor, and blitz until well combined. Blend in pimentón, vinegar and a pinch of salt. With motor running, slowly drizzle in olive oil until all ingredients are finely ground and sauce begins to emulsify.
4. Set a large lidded frying pan over medium-heat and slick with oil. Once hot, crack in eggs and season yolks lightly with salt. Cover pan with a lid and lower heat. Fry eggs until whites are set and yolks are warmed through but still runny, about 2 minutes.
5. Serve eggs alongside potatoes and spoon sauce all over.
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