One of my strongest childhood food memories is of my grandfather's pork belly stew with potatoes. Dark and saucy, dripping with the deep flavors of soy and five spice, a layer of sticky fattiness coating my lips with each bite. I was just 5 or 6 years old and already racked with anxiety when faced with his reticent nature. A man of few words, his seemingly austere presence always made me worry that I was doing something wrong to earn his disapproval.
But all of this doubt would disappear when he placed that heavy pot of braised pork belly on our bare-bones dining table. He let the food speak. I'd sit opposite him and watch patiently as he doled out a bowl for me, two big ladles of glossy meat and creamy potatoes, the comforting aroma wafting in a spiral of steam between us.
This version doesn't come anywhere close to my grandfather's masterpiece. But this holiday season, I missed him, suddenly and seemingly out of nowhere, deeply. This isn't so much an approximation of his recipe as it is an attempt to remember him and relive my memories in present time. If he were here to share a bowl with me, I bet he'd sip a bit of baijiu between his pursed lips before letting out a sigh of contentment and justified pride—just one bite of mine confirms he still makes the best braised pork belly.
Cheers, 老爺. Thanks for feeding me.
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Yields: 6 servings
Prep Time: 0 hours 25 mins
Total Time: 2 hours 10 mins
pork belly, cut into 1 ½" cubes
Honeycrisp apple, peeled and cubed
low-sodium soy sauce
dark mushroom soy sauce
mirin
water
1 ½" piece ginger, minced
large cloves garlic, halved
ground white pepper
freshly ground black pepper
star anise
cinnamon stick
fennel seeds
crushed red rice yeast
Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
- In a large pot over medium heat, add pork and enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer, then drain immediately and gently rinse pork.
- Return pot with pork to medium heat and add in all remaining ingredients except for potatoes. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and let simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Add potatoes, stir to combine, and continue simmering, covered, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are completely creamy, about 40 minutes more.
- Remove lid and let sauce reduce and thicken until desired consistency, if necessary.
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