This Sauce Recipe Goes with Everything from Steak to Pasta - The Wall Street Journal

GREEN LIGHT This herb sauce enlivens an easy snack spread.
Photo: Chelsie Craig for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Pearl Jones, Prop Styling by Nicole Louie

Sept. 2, 2020 12:13 pm ET

FOR LINE COOKS and chefs, preparing “family meal” for the rest of the restaurant’s staff provides a chance to flex their creativity and resourcefulness. The food has to be hearty and nourishing—often it's the only meal staffers will eat during a long shift—yet it tends to come together from seemingly nothing: end cuts of meat, dregs of dairy, perhaps some over-toasted nuts deemed unfit to serve customers during the previous evening’s dinner service. Inevitably, there’s a hodgepodge of herbs that need to be used up.

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When I worked in restaurant kitchens, my ace in the hole for punching up any family meal was the sauce recipe at right. It makes use of those leftover herbs, passed over for whatever reason but still ready to sing. Miraculously, the sauce extends their shelf life by a month or more thanks to the preservative properties of the oils in the mix.

These days, in my home kitchen, there’s always a jar of this bright condiment in the refrigerator, perpetually at the ready to give pastas, salads, marinades and dips a brisk herbal boost. I call it my universal sauce. Any combination of herbs works here; truly, I’ve yet to grab a fistful of random sprigs from the crisper that doesn’t taste great. Leave out the nuts if you want to. Skip the anchovies. This is the kind of bulletproof recipe an old line cook like me takes particular pride in.

Universal Sauce With a Simple Snack Platter

Here, this versatile condiment anchors a satisfying snack spread. Drizzle the herbaceous sauce over sardines and hard-boiled eggs; swirl it into creamy labneh to make a dip for vegetables and crackers. Use any nuts or seeds you like here. And if you enjoy the strong taste of olive oil, you can use a full cup of that and forgo the grapeseed.

Total Time: 10 minutes

makes: About 1¼ cup

Chelsie Craig for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Pearl Jones, Prop Styling by Nicole Louie

Ingredients

For the sauce:

4 cups mixed herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, parsley, with tender stems
¼ preserved lemon
2 cloves garlic
¼ cup toasted seeds or nuts (optional)
2-3 anchovy filets (optional)
½ cup grapeseed oil
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

To serve:

½ cup labneh
Hard-boiled eggs
Sardines
Sliced vegetables, such as lettuce, cucumbers, carrots and/or radishes
Crackers or rye bread

Directions

Make the sauce: In a blender or food processor, blend all ingredients at medium speed until smooth. Sauce will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to two months. Let come to room temperature before using.
Spoon some sauce into a small bowl. Spoon labneh into another small bowl and swirl in a generous spoonful of sauce. Drizzle sauce over eggs and sardines, and scoop up labneh dip with crackers and vegetables.

—Eleanore Park

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